Time seems more abundant in the South Carolina Lowcountry. Steeped in thousands of years of human habitation and five hundred years of written history, this area invites visitors to take a long, slow breath and look deeply into the colorful mosaic of unique scenery, diverse culture and longstanding traditions.
Like ancient faces, the stoic, pillared porches stare out over cobbled sidewalks and brown grass salt marshes. The massive, gnarled oak trees wear long green beards of Spanish moss. The sun seems to take hours to move that last inch on the horizon, drenching the clouds in pink and orange for a good spell. People talk slower. They actually amble. It’s as if everything is saying, “What’s the hurry?”
And what is the hurry? This area of our country is like a great uncle who has a long story to tell, but he’s not going to tell it in 10 minutes. It might take him weeks. So relax, set your RV down in the shade of the oaks and crepe myrtles, fix yourself some sweet tea … and listen.
A Pre-Amble
Before you start strolling on a course down Highway 17, you might be wondering exactly which region is defined as the Lowcountry. From most accounts, it runs along the coast from the southernmost tip of South Carolina up to Charleston, encompassing the sea-islands of Hilton Head, Port Royal, St. Helena, Edisto and hundreds of others. From Charleston, it runs inland with I-26, about as far as its intersection with I-95.
Some folks include the entire stretch of coastline from North Carolina to Georgia, while others see Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand area to the north of Charleston as a separate entity. Whichever way you see it, we’re sticking to the region from Charleston south, mostly because we didn’t go any further than that.
Beginning in Beaufort
“We get 500 years of history and we get it all within a mile radius,” said Beaufort resident Jon Sharp, describing the walking tours he conducts. “This place is special in a lot of ways, but in a historical sense, it’s unforgettable.”
Once you explore Beaufort (pronounced Byu-fert) it’s hard to argue with that, and it’s the reason any tour of the Lowcountry should include a good amount of time in this small town full of big stories. You can’t help but hit Charleston to the north, and to the south, the manicured resort island of Hilton Head gets all the press, but Beaufort is well worth the short trip off the beaten path. It’s not exactly undiscovered, but if you arrive in a shoulder season like early spring or late fall, you’ll probably feel like one of a select few who have discovered this gem.
For a full discovery, Jon Sharp’s Walking History Tour came highly recommended among the host of walking, bus or carriage tours, and Mr. Sharp lived up to his reputation [(843) 575-5775]. The tour is supposed to take an hour and a half, although Jon is liberal with his time when he’s able. The tour is $12 per person and includes a two-mile mosey among some of the most amazing antebellum homes in America. A former Hollywood actor, Sharp delivers the information with creative flair, and many of the stories he tells can’t be found in conventional sources.
For example, Jon describes how the many sea island channels around Beaufort made great hideouts for British pirates (privateers) to raid Spanish galleons carrying hordes of bullion up from the Caribbean, or how the early attempts by the French to set up a colony here failed miserably, or the reasons Beaufort was destroyed in the Revolutionary War but escaped destruction during the Civil War.
“The sea-island cotton produced in this area was the finest cotton available, and it’s the reason such lavish homes were built,” Sharp said. “By 1790, there was incredible wealth in Beaufort. It became the most aristocratic, wealthy and cultured town of its size in the U.S.”
It’s the details that are truly memorable—how the gravestones of St. Helena’s church were uprooted and used as operating tables by Union soldiers camping in Beaufort during the Civil War, or the spot where Dr. Johnson buried his money outside of his plantation house before fleeing the 11,000 square foot home, returning when the war was over to dig up his money and re-purchase his home in an auction.
Sharp also points out Beaufort’s ties to popular culture, such as the house Pat Conroy lived in while writing Prince of Tides, or where Barbara Streisand stayed when the movie was in production, or one of the stores Tom Hanks frequented during the filming of Forrest Gump.
“I guess he has a sweet tooth because he used to go to the Chocolate Tree after they were done shooting,” Sharp said. “It’s a great store. I recommend the dark chocolate sand dollars.”
Drive-Ins and Boiled Peanuts
The rural area surrounding Beaufort holds just as many pleasant surprises as the town itself. For a great slice of Americana, visit the Highway 21 Drive-In Movie Theater and Open Air Market, ((843) 846-4500) just north of downtown. The theater has two nightly features from Friday through Sunday, and is one of only two remaining drive-in theaters in a state that once offered 79.
Roadside markets, fruit and vegetable stands are a much more common occurrence, but are just as inviting. The Carolina Cider Company, on Highway 17 outside Beaufort, is a perfect example. In addition to signature cider, jams and jellies, the Cider Company offers Lowcountry staples like shrimp and grits mix, pralines and boiled peanuts.
This area invites visitors to take a long slow breath and look deeply into the colorful mosaic of unique scenery, diverse culture and longstanding traditions.
Roughly 20 miles southwest of Beaufort, you’ll find Hunting Island State Park, a popular recreation area with an historic lighthouse, a fishing pier, natural lagoon, marshwalk, three miles of beach and a 200-site campground. The Hunting Island lagoon was also a prominent set location in the films Forrest Gump and G.I. Jane. The campground is not a resort RV park, like those further south in Hilton Head, but the sites are fairly spacious and the facilities adequate. Call (866) 345-7275.
Those looking for slightly less populated camping can find it at Edisto Island State Park, a more secluded area between Charleston and Beaufort. The campground here offers a smaller beach and 111 sites with hookups, although the quiet surroundings are a naturalist’s dream. Call (866) 345-7275.
Happening and Historic
It’s only natural that a city with as many cultural influences as Charleston should continue that tradition of diversity, and Charleston still greets visitors with a wide variety of flavors. As with Beaufort, the streets and buildings here are awash in history. Many of the structures date well into the 1700s, and the vast majority are well-preserved or restored and easily accessible in downtown Charleston. At the same time, there is a youthful vibe. The main streets of Meeting and King are lined with hip cafes, busy pubs, chic restaurants, and trendy shops. This is a college town — the College of Charleston is also located downtown — and the students provide an energetic presence among the Georgian town houses, Gothic churches and Roman and Greek Revival architecture. The music and arts scene is also strong here.
It’s important to note that the streets of downtown Charleston were not laid out with RVs in mind, and with many one way streets, it’s not inherently easy to navigate, so the wise traveler might consider parking at a campground on the outskirts and navigating by tow vehicle or mass transit.
Charleston is a great walking town, however, and there are enough sights to see in downtown to keep walkers busy for at least a few days. While those who are extremely fit could cover nearly all of downtown on foot in one day, it might be a good idea to make separate trips to the central downtown area, Concord Street and Waterfront Park to the east, and the more residential Murray Boulevard to the south. A Charleston Pedicab is also a great way to go. Call (800) 577-7088.
A stop at the Visitor’s Center at 375 Meeting Street is worthwhile; it’s a good place to pick up brochures, maps and tourist information of all types. The center’s theater shows a short film feature on Charleston every 45 minutes, starting at 9:00 am. Across the street, you’ll find the Charleston Museum, with permanent exhibits that explore the areas rich history and diverse natural environment. Also within a few blocks, the Aiken-Rhett House stands as the most intact urban townhouse complex showcasing life in antebellum Charleston. Ten dollars gets visitors a self-paced audio tour of amazing home, built in 1818. The ladies guarding the door are serious about no indoor photography, however, and threaten the guillotine for those who don’t comply.
Of course, there are many other historic houses and plantations available for touring in and around Charleston, but we chose the Aiken-Rhett for its proximity and large collection of antebellum items.
Charleston Chews
Food is as much a part of the unique culture of the Lowcountry as the history and beautiful setting. From shrimp and grits to frogmore stew to fried green tomatoes and she-crab soup, the “cuisine of the water” is a distinct culinary style that will linger in your memory long after the meals are over.
There are too many outstanding restaurants to play favorites, but locals pointed us to Jestine’s Kitchen, a mostly unsung restaurant with homestyle meals and a charming atmosphere. The fresh, breaded trout and fried green tomatoes were exceptional, and the peach cobbler was at least as good as grandma’s. Other highly regarded restaurants serving Lowcountry fare include Hank’s Seafood Restaurant, the Peninsula Grill and J Bistro, across the river in Mt. Pleasant.
For those who don’t mind crowds, the Lowcountry Oyster Festival is a fun way to partake in an important local commodity. Held in January at the beautiful Boone Hall Plantation, the festival serves up over 60,000 pounds of oysters in a family friendly atmosphere.
Going Gullah
One of the most fascinating aspects of the Lowcountry has emerged from a challenging past. Gullah is a both a language and a culture, rising up from the slave communities that built the wealth of the South. It’s thought that the word Gullah comes from Angola, the region in Africa where most of the slaves were from. The courage and spirit of the slaves survived, as did their ancestral traditions. It is reflected today in their descendants, who continue to embrace the Gullah culture. It is found in the cadence of the language, in the Gullah “shout” a rhythmic convergence of forbidden drums and the oldest plantation melodies. It is found in the music of choir groups, the tales of storytellers, and the hands of sweetgrass basket weavers.
In Charleston, look to Alphonso Brown of Gullah Tours for a complete education in this rich culture. Call (843) 763-7551, or visit www.gullahtours.com. In Beaufort, the Penn Center has played an enormous role in preserving the Gullah legacy. It is one of the nation’s first African-American educational institutions, established early in the Civil War to educate freed slaves. Call (843) 838-2432, or visit www.penncenter.com.
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